Temporary Bride

Tea, Ezafe and a First Taste of Khaareji

Haj Ali had emigrated to London from a small industrial city in Central Iran in the late 1970’s. Other than the odd tourist, viewed from a distance, he’d never had any contact with foreign women before>>>

One month in Iran without having sex?

“I couldn’t sleep at all last night,” said Vahid. “I kept thinking about what you said to me." >>>

Are you a Virgin?

As we walk Vahid points out girls to me and asks if I think they are beautiful. “Iranian girls are the most beautiful in the world,” he declares>>>

Down, Down America with Half, Full Mouths

Scraps of parchment like bread are set before them and the handles of the doogh pitcher or the salad dressing are turned for their easy reach>>>

Lessons in Ash e Reshteh: Shoulder to Shoulder, Toshak to Toshak

Standing barefoot, side by side in her kitchen, we chatted and gestured, tasted and seasoned, each of us taking turns at the stove stirring and breaking noodles with our hands into the fragrant, bubbling pots>>>

One Day, Two Iranians, One Vow to Self

I walked back to the safety of my magical little Yazdi caravanserai hotel vowing that never, ever will I pose with my future husband on with heart shaped pillows. Never>>>

To Tahdig, wherever I may find her.

It isn’t boiled or steamed or thrown unceremoniously into a rice cooker. No Iranian rice is first soaked and bathed like a Hindu princess >>>

Double or Nothing: Gambling with Yazdi Taxi Drivers

Through the lengthy exchange of Farsi that followed I understood that neither was willing to release his money until the other handed his across first. Should I have kissed him?>>>

Iranian Tea Drinking 101: A Symphony in Sugar

Tea drinking in Iran is a little like learning to play the clarinet. It is all about moisture and airflow. And sugar. >>>

Ambush at IKA: Evading the Wedding Planners

His wallet was overflowing with pictures of prospective wives. Their overplucked eyebrows were replaced with fierce, crayon-like trajectories drawn in with eyeliner. >>>

Samurais in Scarves: Lavandi at LHR and the Humble Khaareji Observer

TRUE OR FALSE: Iranian women are timid, shy creatures with a deep commitment to the traditional Islamic values of innocence and purity>>>

Hijab Ho or House Arrest: A Khaareji Tests the Waters

I believe that I have mastered demure yet stylish hijab with duly painted eyelashes, painstakingly breezily draped scarf and perfectly placed wisps of face-framing hair>>>

Declaring a Moral Ceasefire - A Machiavellian Taxi Ride

London is a tough city. And on a Saturday night finding a taxi does put one into a rather Machiavellian mindset>>>

Chador Brigade vs Lipstick Sisterhood - A Study in Diplomacy for the Khaareji

I spent an hour this morning googling and analysing modern Iranian street fashion and soon realised that the interpretation of ‘modest’ is subject to wide fluctuations.>>>

Hip in Hijab - A khaareji's dilemna

I am researching the hijab or ‘enforced standard of dress for ladies in the Islamic Republic of Iran’ with the zeal a PH.D student. And I am determined to go to Iran looking respectfully, attractively as much like myself as possible.>>>