A few kilometers after Rasht we knocked at a door of a farm along the road and despite our messy looks and the clock reaching almost midnight, three brothers let us in and showed us their videos of the clandestine bull fights they organize. We were a bit shocked by the violence of these events (they sharpen the bulls’ horns before the fight…) but the next day when they showed us their huge bull proudly, sticking to our principle that a good guest should put aside his ideas and go along with the fantasies of his host, we pretended to be impressed.