"The real Tehran is like a playing card. You have to flip it over to see its true side." Elhaam smiles as she offers this piece of wisdom, well aware that she is a piece of the puzzle.
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Most of the hip establishments are in the city's north, home to the better-educated and better off. In the south, many women wear the long, enveloping black chador, and pictures of Khomeini and the current supreme leader, Ali Khamenei, dominate street murals.