A professor of religion was awaiting us at the two-room First Romanian School Museum which had an impressive collection of 6000 old books, including schoolbooks from the 15th century. He had us sit in a classroom at 200 year old desks and, playfully with a disciplining wood switch in his hand, demonstrated the role that Wallachian Orthodox priests played in educating the locals. He showed us the printing press...

Photo essay: Post-communist Romania