The guide showed us the wall in the then Catholic Church where the murdered Ruler (Mihnea Voda cel Rau) was buried. In that square now stood the statue of “Teutch,” the Lutheran theologian and historian of the mid-19th Century. “No Catholic or Lutheran church was taken over and turned into Orthodox,” our guide said. Instead, our biggest Orthodox Cathedral was built here as a smaller copy of Istanbul’s Hagia Sofia.”

Photo essay: Post-communist Romania